A City Beyond Jegol

By Teshome Berhanu Kemal



Social media is buzzing with admiration for the remarkable transformation of Harar. Both government and private media proudly showcase the city’s newfound beauty, and even Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed has celebrated Harar as a model of progress. In a parliamentary address, he hailed it as proof of what can be achieved when leaders and citizens collaborate.

Is the transformation of Harar impressive? Without a doubt. Has Jegol been revitalized into a thriving tourist destination? Absolutely. Hararis and their allies have worked relentlessly to bring about this change, their dedication unparalleled in the city’s history. Regional leaders, too, have played a crucial role, working tirelessly to lay the foundations of a new Harar. Their contributions deserve more than applause; they warrant lasting recognition.

Yet, Harar is more than Jegol. It is a living museum of history and culture, where the echoes of past civilizations linger in its palaces, mosques, gathering halls, and the tombs of legendary figures. Its ancient agricultural systems and architectural marvels tell stories of ingenuity and resilience. To celebrate only one part of the city while neglecting the rest would be an injustice.

The Palace of Aw Berhedle: A Forgotten Treasure

Among Harar’s overlooked wonders is the double-walled stone enclosure at the palace of Aw Berhedle—a silent guardian of the past. This architectural masterpiece must be restored to its former glory. More than a historical relic, it stands as a testament to the craftsmanship and foresight of Harar’s ancestors.

The 1,000-year-old Amir Aw Berhedle Palace, named after its esteemed historical figure, has been undergoing renovation and was officially inaugurated in July 2024. Enclosed by walls stretching approximately 119 by 200 meters, this grand structure once housed noble families and remains one of Harar’s architectural treasures. The existence of its double-layered ramparts raises intriguing questions: Were they built as additional fortifications, or did later inhabitants repurpose the stones for their own homes?

Born in 1266/7 in Dogor, 32 kilometers northeast of Hargeisa, Sherif Yusuf Berhedle—widely known as Aw Berhedle—was both a spiritual and political figure of Isa-Gadabursi Ishaq descent. He lived in Zeila and is believed to be part of a lineage of early Islamic settlers in the Horn of Africa, tracing back to Prophet Muhammad’s followers. Some of his contemporaries, such as Sheikh Hussain al-Bale of Dew, settled in Ethiopia, while others reached as far as Zanzibar.

Aw Berhedle played a pivotal role in the Walasma and Adal Islamic dynasties. Ancient pottery and silver coins found in the regions where he lived bear witness to his era. His burial sites in Dogor and Harar—alongside other revered tombs, such as those of Aw Barena and Aw Buba—attest to his enduring legacy.

Koremi and the Argoba People: Guardians of Heritage

Beyond its grand palaces and spiritual landmarks, Harar is also home to Koremi, a historical treasure intertwined with Islamic heritage. This ancient settlement is inhabited by the Argoba people, renowned for their skill in stone masonry, jewelry-making, metalwork, and textile weaving—crafts that have flourished for centuries.

Koremi’s agricultural traditions are equally impressive. The region sustains a unique farming system where fruit trees, coffee plants, and various crops thrive together, reflecting a deep understanding of sustainable land use.

But perhaps Koremi’s most precious asset is its collection of ancient manuscripts. Carefully preserved from theft and decay, these texts offer invaluable insights into the religious, social, and economic history of the Argoba people. Scholars studying them continue to unravel Koremi’s significance within the broader Islamic world.

Rediscovering Harar’s Hidden Treasures

Beyond Harar’s famed landmarks, a wealth of hidden treasures lies scattered across Fedis, Kombolcha, Gursum, Qundido, and Fiq, awaiting rediscovery. In these regions, ancient mosques bear the names of emirs, sultans, imams, and revered sheikhs—silent witnesses to a legacy that must not be forgotten.

Harar is not just a city; it is a sanctuary of living history. Across the world, modernization, war, and displacement have wiped out countless relics of past civilizations. But in Harar, these treasures endure. Few places remain where one can still walk through the echoes of the past, where history is not merely studied but felt.

If properly preserved and thoughtfully developed, Harar could become a living museum—where the past is not confined to books and archives but embedded in every street, every stone, every breath of its air. Its landscapes—rolling plains, deep valleys, and rugged ridges—are not just picturesque; they are cinematic. With the right vision, Harar could serve as a backdrop for historical documentaries and artistic films, bringing its ancient world to life.

But Harar is more than a relic of history. It is an intellectual goldmine, an open book for historians, anthropologists, and scholars of social and economic evolution. To stand in Harar is to stand in the presence of layered civilizations stretching across centuries.

The Beating Heart of a Region

Harar is a crossroads of cultures, where Oromo, Somali, Afar, and Harari communities have coexisted for generations, shaping its distinct identity. These people are not just inhabitants; they are the soul of Harar. Without them, there is no Harar. Their shared heritage is what makes this city a vibrant, living proof to the past—one that must be protected and celebrated.

When the light of Harar shines upon the names of Aw Abadir, Shulum Ahmed, Aw Berhedle, Aw Mashhad, Ai Abida, Umkhoda, Aw Umaradin, and countless others, its brilliance reaches far beyond its walls, casting its glow across East Africa. Those fortunate enough to witness this light understand its profound significance.

For Ethiopia, Harar is not just a historical treasure—it is an economic and cultural artery. Like the udder of a cow, it nourishes the nation, offering prosperity through heritage tourism, trade, and cultural preservation. If safeguarded, it will remain an irreplaceable asset. For centuries, Harar’s strategic location has shielded Ethiopia, and even today, it holds immense significance in the country’s security and identity.

A Legacy for the World to Protect

Harar is not just the pride of Hararis, nor is it solely an Ethiopian heritage. In many ways, it belongs to the world. It is a rare civilization that time has tried—but failed—to erase. Global institutions, economic powers, and especially the Islamic world must recognize this and act. If there are still hearts that mourn the civilizations we have lost, let them turn their eyes to Harar—before it is too late.

Until that day comes, let us honor those who have made this transformation possible. May their efforts be remembered, and may Harar’s light continue to shine for generations to come.